BIOGRAPHY



Marloes ten Bhömer (b. 1979, Duiven, the Netherlands) is a Senior Research Fellow in Design at Kingston University London and external examiner at Goldsmiths University.

Ten Bhömer’s practice-based research focuses on women’s footwear from technical, material and cultural perspectives. She consistently aims to challenge generic typologies of women’s shoes through experiments with non-traditional technologies and material techniques. By reinventing the design methodology and the process by which footwear is made, the resulting shoes serve as unique examples of new aesthetic and structural possibilities, while also serving to criticise the conventional status of women’s shoes as cultural objects.

Her current research considers the role design and media play in the social and cultural formation of the ‘high-heeled woman’, in turn challenging the hardened typologies that uphold repressive stereotypes with regard to women’s social and physical mobility. Her objective is to understand and propose alternatives to the status quo.

Alongside her practice, she works towards expanding and diversifying the theoretical and contextual frameworks of fashion and footwear through pedagogy. During her tenure as Professor of Fashion at the Universität der Künste in Berlin, she initiated a multi-disciplinary approach which sought to challenge pre-conceived and limiting parameters in Fashion education. The curricula developed served to broaden the role of the fashion designer in society, and did so by proposing alternative approaches, topics, methods and models of dissemination using fashion as a vehicle for commentary. She is also a member of a collective of five UK based academics furthering this debate in search for alternative teaching approaches, methodologies and materialities for fashion and in so doing positioning and promoting critical fashion practice.

Her research informs critical works produced in a variety of mediums ranging from film, photography, sculpture, objects, installations and shoe-artefacts. It is disseminated in a variety of contexts through international exhibitions, conferences, lectures and in both academic and non-academic publications. Notable exhibitions were held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Museum of Art and Design New York (MAD), Modemuseum in Hasselt, Belgium and the Design Exchange, Toronto. Her work has been selected for the Designs of the Year, Design Museum London (2009), the Jerwood Contemporary Makers Prize (2010) and she has been awarded the Stanley Picker Fellowship in Design 2011-2013. Her work is part of the permanent collection of the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York.

 

 


CURRICULUM VITAE


Personal Description
Marloes ten Bhömer (b. 1979, Duiven, the Netherlands)


Education

2003                         MA Design Products, Royal College of Art London
2002                         Summer School 3D and Digital Footwear Design & Making, London College of Fashion
2001                         BA Hon, Higher School of Arts Arnhem, ArtEZ 


Current Employment

Senior Research Fellow, Centre for Research Through Design at Kingston University London


Research Interests and Expertise
Fashion and footwear material, manufacturing, engineering and design methodology innovation
Craft and technological manufacturing and their respective status
Women’s footwear design and fashion typology
Women’s footwear as cultural objects
Gender, design and mobility
Critical practice in fashion


Research Fellowships, Residencies, Grants and Awards
2018                         Designer in Residence, KYOTO Design Lab, Kyoto Institute of Technology
2016                         Video work shortlisted for LOOP Barcelona's Discover Award
2011-2013              Stanley Picker Fellowship 2011
2010                         Residency at the Jerusalem Center for Visual Arts, Israel
2010                         Nominated for Jerwood Contemporary Makers 2010
2009                         Nominated for the Designs of the Year 2009, Design Museum London
2006                         Nesta Creative Pioneer Programme Award
2005                         Crafts Council Development Award
2003                         Startstipendium FondsBKVB


Professional Activity

2017-2020                External examiner: MA Design Expanded Practice, Goldsmiths University London.
2017                         External expert meeting: MA Fashion Strategy ArtEZ.
2015                         Course validator: MA Wearable Futures, Ravensbourne, London.
2013                         Participant, PILOTS: Navigating Next Models of Design Education, Kingston University,
                                 Stanley Picker Gallery, Curated by El Ultimo Grito and David Falkner.


Collections
Public                       FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA  
                                 Stedelijk Museum 's-Hertogenbosch, the Netherlands
                                 SLEM Museum, Waalwijk, the Netherlands
Private                      China, United States, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom.


Selected Teaching Positions and Workshops

2012-2015                Professor in BA and MA Fashion Design at the Universität der Künste Berlin.
2014-2015                Visiting lecturer at the London College of Fashion, MA footwear, London.
2014                         Workshop at London College of Fashion, Maker Library Workshops.
2012                         Workshop at HEAD Haute École d’Art et de Design, Genève.
2012                         Visiting lecturer at London College of Fashion MA fashion and the environment.
2010-2012                Teaching position, BA Product and Furniture Design at Kingston University.
2010-2011                Teaching position, Foundation Design at Camberwell College of Arts, London.
2011                         Visiting lecturer at Kolding School of Design, Denmark.
2011                         Workshop at the Universität der Künste Berlin.
2010                         Workshop at the Design Museum Holon, Israel.
2007-2008                Teaching position, Foundation Architecture and Design at the Metropolitan University, London.
2006                         Visiting lecturer at Summer School, Architectural Association London.


Selected Conferences, Symposia, Artist Talks

2017                         Conference exhibition at ‘Space for Fashion Thinking & Practice: Review, Reflect, Revise’, Coventry University London. 
                                 Organisers:  The Fashion Research Network, Alexis Romano, Ellen Sampson, Nathaniel Dafydd Beard and Lucia Savi.
2017                         Conference presentations ‘Research as Object, Towards a Material and Cultural Investigation’ and ‘Breaking the Script -
                                 Fashion Critiques and Conversations, Thoughts in Progress
’ at ‘Everything and Everybody as Material: Beyond Fashion
                                 Design Methods
’, The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås. Organisers: Clemens Thornquist and
                                 Ricarda Bigolin.
2016                         Symposium presentation (invited speaker) ‘Research as Object’ at ‘Undesign Symposium’, University of Applied Arts
                                 Vienna. Organiser:  Alison J. Clarke. Moderator: Björn Franke.
2016                         Symposium presentation and panel member at ‘Wearable Futures – A Panel Discussion’, Ravensbourne, London. 
                                 Organiser and moderator: Alexa Pollmann.
2014-2016                Talks at Central Saint Martins, Material Futures, London.
2014                         Talk at the London College of Fashion, MA footwear, London.
2014                         Conference presentation ‘Cultural and associative opportunities and limitations of traditional and technological production’ at
                                 ‘Global Fashion Conference: Rethinking & Reworking Global Fashion, Ghent’, Belgium, 
2014                         Panel moderator and organiser, ‘Dissecting the Body and Fashion’ at Designtransfer Gallery Berlin, Germany. 
                                 Speakers; Birgit Dieker and Mads Dinesen.
2014                         Panel member and talk: ‘What is the Relevance of Trench Coats in the Age of Drone Wars?’ at ‘How do fashion cycles and
                                 design interact
?’ Design Culture Salon 11, Victoria & Albert Museum, London. Organisers: Guy Julier and Leah Armstrong.
                                 Moderator Chris Breward.
2014                         Talk at the Royal College of Art, Fashion, London.
2013                         Symposium presentation at ‘Design Symposium in Memory of Alex Ward’, Israel Museum in Jerusalem, Israel.
                                 Organiser Osnat Sirkin.
2013                         Talk at the Victoria and Albert Museum during London Design Festival.
2013                         Conference presentation and panel member at ‘Digital Fashion Conference 2013’, London College of Fashion, London.
                                 Organiser: the Fashion Digital Studio.
2013                         Talk at the Stanley Picker Gallery, London.
2012                         Talk at the London College of Fashion, MA fashion and the environment, London.
2011                         Symposium presentation at ‘Power of Making Symposium’, Victoria and Albert Museum London. Organiser: Daniel Charny.
2011                         Talk at Adidas as part of the 'The Speaker Series', Herzogenaurach.
2010                         Talk at the Design Museum Holon, Israel.
2009                         Lecture series at the Design Museum, London.


Selected Exhibitions and Screenings
2018                         The Rational Dress Society presents: OMEGA Workshop, An experiment in counter-fashion, Elizabeth Foundation for the
                                 Arts (EFA) New York, 18 Jan - 10 Mar 2018.
2017                         SHOETOPIA!, Valade Family Gallery, College for Creative Studies Detroit, United States, 4 Nov  - 16 Dec 2017.
                                 Curated by Liza Snook.
2017                         Aesthetica Sort Film Festival, screening, York, United Kingdom, 8-12 Nov 2017.
2017-2018                Studio ZZM, Beats Working, Zuiderzeemuseum. 29 Jun 2017 - 6 May 2018. In collaboration with Noam Toran,
                                 Curated by Jan Boelen and Evelien Bracke. Commissioned work.
2017-2018                High Heels, Die hohe Kunst der Schuhe, Schloss Lichtenwalde, Germany, 25 May 2017 - 5 Feb 2018.
                                 Curated by Liza Snook and Brigitte Woischnik.  
2017                         Middernacht bij Meret en Bart, Stedelijk Museum Den Bosch 28 Jan - 14 May 2017.
2016-2018                Coded_Couture, touring exhibition, Pratt Manhattan Gallery, New York, 12 Feb - 30 Apr 2016. At: Ulrich Museum of
                                 Art, Wichita State University, Kansas, 10 Sept - 4 Dec. At: Tufts University Art Gallery, Medford, Massachusetts,
                                 19 Jan - 21 May 2017. At: Oklahoma Contemporary Arts Centre, Oklahoma City, 29 Jun - 10 Aug 2017.
                                 At: Ruth Funk Center for Textile Arts, Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, 27 Jan - 28 Apr 2018.
                                 Curated by Judith Hoos Fox and Ginger Gregg Duggan.
2016                         Real to Reel 2: The Craft Film Festival, Screenings, Picturehouse Central, London, 4-5 May 2016.
                                 Curated by the Craft Council.  
2015                         Smarter. Faster. Tougher, The Design Exchange Toronto, 8 Jul - 12 Oct 2015. Curated by Marie O’Mahony.
2015                         Life on Foot, Design Museum London, 13 May 2015 - 1 Nov 2015. Curated by Pete Collard and Anniina Koivu.
                                 Commissioned work.
2015                         Crafting Anatomies, Bonington Gallery, Nottingham, United Kingdom, 7 Jan - 4 Feb 2015.
                                 Curated by Amanda Briggs-Goode, Rhian Solomon and Katherine Townsend
2014-2015                Sex Shop, touring exhibition, Folkestone Triennial Fringe Festival, Folkestone, 30 Aug - 4 Oct 2014.
                                 At: Transition Gallery, London, 28 Feb - 14 Mar 2015. Curated by Sarah Gillham, Jack Stokoe and Darren Nairn.
                                 Commissioned work.
2014                         Tradition and Innovation of Dutch Design, Mikimoto Hall Tokyo, 27 Mar - 23 Apr 2014. Curated by Lenn Cox.
2014                         Out of Step: Avant Garde Footwear from the Royal College of Art, Sommerset House, London, 14 Feb 2014 -
                                 18 Feb 2014.
2013-2014                Out of Hand; Materializing the Postdigital, MAD Museum of Arts and Design, New York, 16 Oct 2013 - 01 Jun 2014.
                                 Curated by Ron Labaco.
2013                         Real to Reel, screening and touring exhibition, Crafts Council, London, 18 Sept 2013 - 22 Sept 2014.
                                 At: Guild Design Fair in Capetown, 27 Feb - 9 Mar 2014. At: National Centre for Craft and Design, Sleaford, United Kingdom,
                                 3 May - 14 Jul 2014. At: Perth Museum and Art Gallery, United Kingdom, 27 Jun - 27 Sept 2015. At: Inverness Museum and
                                 Art Gallery, United Kingdom, 25 Apr - 30 May 2015. At: St Fergus Gallery, Wick, Highlands and Islands, United Kingdom,
                                 28 Feb - 11 Apr 2015. Curated by the Crafts Council.
2013                         Design Festival London, Victoria and Albert Museum Fashion Galleries, London, 9 Sept 2013 - 23 Sept 2013.
                                 Curated by David Falkner, Jana Scholze, and Jenny Lister.
2013                         Layer by Layer, Fashion Space Gallery, London, 10 Apr - 18 May 2013. Curated by Leanne Wierzba and Gemma Williams.
2013                         Wonderingmode; Inter-Relations Between Art / Fashion / Architecture, Centre for Contemporary Art Znaki Czasu in Torun,
                                 Poland. 15 Mar 2013 - 26 May 2013. Curated by Dobrila Denegri, Linda Loppa, Kaat Debo, Helena Hertov,
                                 Annemartine van Kesteren and Stefan Siegel.  
2013                         A Measurable Factor Sets The Conditions Of Its Operation, Stanley Picker Gallery, London, 14 Feb - 13 Apr 2013. 
                                 Solo exhibition. Commissioned work.
2013                         Pierre Hardy, Anatomie du Désir, Design Project Room, Head Geneva. Curated by Alexandra Midal 25 Jan - 16 Mar 2013.
2012                         Best of British, British Business Embassy, Lancaster House, London, 27 Jul 2012 - 12 Aug 2012.
                                 Curated by the Crafts Council.
2011                         Power Of Making, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 6 Sept 2011 - 2 Jan 2012. Curated by Daniel Charny.
2011                         Industrious|Artefacts, the Evolution of Crafts, Zuiderzeemuseum, the Netherlands, 27 May 2011 - 12 Feb 2012.
                                 Curated by: Rianne Makkink & Jurgen Bey. Commissioned work.
2011-2013                Connecting Concepts, touring exhibition, Ahmedabad, India, 9 Feb 2011 - 27 Feb 2011, At: Mumbai, 8 Jun 2011 -
                                 16 Jun in 2011, At: Kumara Krupa Road, Bangalore, 19 Jul 2011 - 31 Jul 2011, At: Beijing Design Week, 26 Sept 2011 -
                                 3 Oct 2011, At: Shanghai International Creative Industry Week, Shanghai, International Exhibition Center, 26 Oct 2011 -
                                 1 Nov 2011, At: Designhuis, Eindhoven, 28 Jan 2012 - 28 Apr 2012, At: DMY International Design Festival in Berlin,
                                 Berlin Tempelhof, 6 Jun 2012 - 10 Jun 2012, At: Hasköy Yun Iplik Fabrikasi, Istanbul, 25 Sept 2012 - 21 Oct 2012,
                                 At: São Paulo, Brazil FAAP Museum de Arte Brasileira, 21 Nov 2012 - 20 Jan 2013.
                                 Curated by Ed van Hinte. Organised by the Premsela Stichting.
2011                         The Future That Never Was, Modemuseum Hasselt, Belgium, 28 Jan 2011 - 05 Jun 2011.
                                 Curated by Kenneth Ramaekers.
2010                         Mechanical Couture Fashioning a New Order, Design Museum Holon, 14 Oct 2010 - 8 Jan 2011.


                                 Curated by: Curatorsquared; Judith Hoos Fox and Ginger Gregg Duggan.
2010-2011                Biennale Internationale Design 2010, Saint-Étienne, 4 Oct 2010 - 14 Jan 2011. Curated by Benjamin Loyauté.
2010-2011                Jerwood Contemporary Makers 2010, touring exhibition, Jerwood Space London, 17 Jun 2010 - 25 Jul 2010,
                                 At: The Naughton Gallery at Queens, Belfast, 4 Aug 2010 - 12 Sept 2010, At: Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh, 23 Nov 2010,
                                 At: National Craft Gallery Kilkenny, Ireland, 21 Jan 2011 - 8 Mar 2011.
                                 Selection panel: Hans Stofer, Richard Slee and Freddie Robins.
2009                         Launch of Beigefoldeshoe, Spring Projects Gallery, London, 16 Jul 2009. Curated by Andrée Cooke. Solo exhibition.
2009                         In Her Shoes, Modemuseum Hasselt, Belgium, 29 May 2009 - 08 Nov 2009. Curated by Kenneth Ramaekers
2009                         Designs of the Year 2009, Design Museum, London, 12 Feb 2009 - 14 Jun 2009.
2009                         WOW design: Marloes ten Bhömer, Krannert Art Museum, Illinois, 30 Jan - 31 May 2009.
                                 Curated by: Curatorsquared, Judith Hoos Fox and Ginger Gregg Duggan. Solo exhibition. Commissioned work.
2007                         Something Material Everything Immaterial, Galerie Lucy Mackintosh, Switzerland, Dec 2007 - 19 Jan 2008.
                                 Curated by Emily Campbell, British Council, Shumon Basar and Joshua Bolchover, Newbetter.
2007                         Platform21=Folding, Platform21, Amsterdam, 12 Aug - 7 Oct 2007.   


Selected Bibliography

Published articles
2017                         Ten Bhömer, M. (2017) ‘Research as Object - Towards a Material and Cultural Investigation’, Conference catalogue,
                                 Everything and Everybody as Material, The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås. (in press)
2017                         Ten Bhömer, M. and Hoette, R and Postlethwaite, S. and Pollmann, A. and Thiel, K.  (2017). ‘Breaking the Script -
                                 Fashion Critiques and Conversations, Thoughts in Progress
’ , Conference catalogue, Everything and Everybody as Material,
                                 The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås. (in press)
2016                         Ten Bhömer, M. (2016) 'The Activated Object', Design Finals ArtEZ catalogue, p.3.
2014                         Ten Bhömer, M. (2014) 'The Planetary Catwalk and Beyond', Schau Universität der Künste Berlin catalogue, p 3,4,5. 

Design cited in publications, journals and catalogues
2016                         lic.phil. Anna-Brigitte Schlittler. Prof. Dr. Gertrud Lehnert and Maria Weilandt (Hg.), ed. (2016) Ist Mode queer?
                                 Neue Perspektiven der Modeforschung. Germany, Transcript Verlag - Fashion Studies. p.63, 64.
2016                         Helen Charman (2016) Visitor Voices Between the Discursive and the Immersive. Stedelijk Studies Issue #4 Between the
                                 Discursive and the Immersive – Spring 2016, the Netherlands, Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. p. 3, 7.
2015                         Anna Catalani (2015). Fashionable Curiosities: Extreme Footwear as Wearable Fantasies. Journal of Fashion Theory.
                                 United Kingdom, Taylor & Francis. p. 7, 8 10, 14, 16. Published online: 12 Aug 2015. P. 571, 574, 578, 580.
2015                         Anniina Koivu, ed. (2015). The Walking Society. Design Museum, Exhibition catalogue, Lars Müller Publishers, p.156, 157.
2015                         Jana Scholze, Helen Perrson, ed, (2015). Open futures in Shoes: Pleasure and Pain. Exhibition catalogue, United Kingdom,
                                 V&A Publishing. p. 106, 107, 108.
2014                         Ronald T. Labaco (2014) Out of Hand: Materializing the Postdigital. Museum of Arts & Design, Exhibition catalogue,
                                 United Kingdom, Black Dog Publishing p.100 - 101.
2014                         Black, S., de la Haye, A., Entwistle, J., Root, R., Rocamora, A., & Thomas, H. (Eds.). (2014). 
                                 The handbook of fashion studies. A&C Black.
2013                         Marcus Fairs (2013) 21st Century Design: New Design Icons from Mass Market to Avant- Garde. United Kingdom,
                                 Carlton Books.
2013                         Ann Marie Shillito (2013). Digital Crafts: Industrial Technologies for Applied Artists and Designer Makers. 
                                 A&C Black.
2012                         Chris Lefteri (2012). Making It. United Kingdom: Laurence King Publisher. p.137, 138.
2011                         Helen Charman. (2011). The productive eye: conceptualising learning in the Design Museum. 
                                 (Doctoral dissertation, Institute of Education, University of London).
2011                         Daniel Charny (2011) Power of Making. The importance of being Skilled, Exhibition catalogue, United Kingdom:
                                 V&A Publishing and the Crafts Council. p.45.
2011                         Philip Delamore and Ivan Vartanian (2011). High Heels: Fashion Femininity Seduction. United Kingdom: Thames & Hudson.
                                 p.166 – 171.
2011                         Eve Demoen, Kenneth Ramaekers and Romy Cockx (2011) The Future That Never Was. Exhibition catalogue.
                                 Modemuseum Hasselt. p. 58, 59.        
2011                         Rianne Makkink en Jurgen Bey (2011). Nijverheden. Exhibition catalogue, Zuiderzeemuseum. p. 64, 65.  
2010                         Judith Hoos Fox and Ginger Gregg Duggan (2010). Mechanical Couture, Fashioning a New Order. 
                                 Exhibition catalogue, Israel; Holon Design Museum. (Cover) p.13, 15, 48-57
2010                         Martin Raymond (2010). The Trend Forecasters Handbook. United Kingdom: Laurence King Publisher. p.58.      
2009                         Aki Choklat and Rachel Jones (2009). Shoe Design. Germany: Daab Media. p. 322-331
2008                         Jenny Udale (2008). Basics Fashion Design: Textiles and Fashion. United Kingdom, Fairchild Books AVA.
2007                         Sue Huey and Rebecca Proctor (2007). New Shoes, Contemporary Footwear Design. United Kingdom:
                                 Laurence King Publishing. p. 166- 169.  

Design cited in magazines
2016                         Con Art Magazine. More than Design.  
2015                         Disegno.
2014                         Maker Library Network, text by Melanie Spencer.
2013                         Disegno, text by Kasia Jezowska. Italian Vogue (Cover), Styling: Marie Amélie Sauvé, Photography: Steven Meisel. 
                                 Dazed & Fused.
2012                         Frieze magazine. Slem Magazine. Savon Sanomat. seLecT. Twiggy. Think magazine.
2011                         Crafts Magazine. Dezeen. Opzij. Inform (Cover). Times Space 20. AZURE Magazine.
2010                         Fashionclash. Wired. Viewpoint Magazine, Haarzet, Calcalist, Italian Vogue.
2009                         The Evening Standard, Dazed Digital. Designboom. Art4D. IdN. Italian Vogue.
2008                         SLCTR. JCreport. Departures magazine.
2007                         Surface Magazine. LeMonde2. Blend magazine. Talk.
2006                         Freedom. Ryanair. Noovo. Freedom. LaVie Magazine.
2005                         Japanese Vogue. Artreview. Blueprint. Wallpaper. Tank. Frame.
2004                         Calzarte (Cover). Jaarverslag FondsBKVB 2003. WGSN. Crafts.


Clients
Keds, Laura J London, Adidas, Wexla, FormFormForm Ltd., Nokia, The Advantage 







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© Marloes ten Bhömer 2000-2018