SELECTED EXHIBITIONS


A Measurable Factor Sets the Conditions of its Operation / 2013
13 February - 6 April 2013
Stanley Picker Gallery
Faculty of Art, Design & Architecture
Kingston University, Knights Park
Kingston upon Thames KT1 2QJ
www.stanleypickergallery.org

 

 

 


A Measurable Factor Sets the Conditions of its Operation is an exhibition of investigative pieces, processes, tests and trials for a new footwear collection informed by engineering principles. Marloes ten Bhömer's aim is to completely replace the standard and regimented approaches to footwear design and manufacturing with the working processes of engineering. This method, which purposefully shirks fashion trends and styles, is based on research into the structural parameters required to support a foot (in a high-heeled position) while in motion.

Displayed throughout the exhibition are artifacts from a series of structural, aesthetic and cultural experiments and outcomes, conducted and produced over the course of a year. The White Prototypes (2013) displayed on the shelves are test pieces, mapping out specific combinations of foot and ground contact points derived from anatomical and kinematic studies. Alongside them are a collection of sketches, construction rigs, slow-motion video footage, pressure-mat analyses, prototypes of various complexities, film compilations, prints and slides. Intuitive experiments and analytical studies, observations and inferences, triumphs and failures, are all presented together in the gallery installation. 

As demonstrated in the projected video Material Compulsion (2013), the high-heeled woman is a complex construct, one designed for, and ultimately sanctioned to, the man-made environment. When placed in alternative settings (through the narrative of a film, for example) or when forced to walk through unique substrates, a woman in heels loses her equilibrium (both physically and culturally) and begins to slip, trip, sink or tumble, thereby transforming her perceived identity.

The consequences of ten Bhömer's extensive research methodology, developed over the course of her Stanley Picker Fellowship at Kingston University, are two-fold: First, the approach reveals a link between rationalised parameters, aesthetic intuition and structural understanding. Second, by considering 'the woman in motion' as an engineering problem, she exposes and questions the role high heels play in the cultural construction of female identity.
 

A Stanley Picker Fellowship Research Project (Kingston University)
A special thank you to: Ioannis Belimpasakis, James Brouner, Marc
Bultitude, Kenny Evans, Laura Hodson, Phil Hollins, Graeme MacKay, Stephanie Jayne Price, Emma Rummins, Nicola Swann, Jane and James at Sugru, Per Tingleff, Noam Toran, Nick Williamson
and the Stanley Picker Gallery team. 
Photography: Ellie Laycock.

Concept development during the Jerusalem Center For The Visual Arts residency 2010
http://www.jcva.org







Material Compulsion / 2013

Video: Shot on Phantom HD at 500 FPS
Running time: 12:19 min
Director of photography: Per Tingleff
Art Director: Noam Toran
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Industrious|Artefacts, the evolution of crafts, 26 May 2011 - 12 February 2012
Zuiderzeemuseum, the Netherlands
Curators: Studio Makkink & Bey
Other exhibitors; Claire Warnier and Dries Verbruggen, Studio Glithero and Studio Makkink & Bey.

Guest curators Rianne Makkink and Jurgen Bey address the evolution of production processes and small industries through the work of Dutch and international designers.

Works on display:
Rotationalmouldedshoe / 2009
Rotationalmouldingmachine / 2009
Mutant Parade / 2009 

Rotationalmouldedshoe was commissioned by the Krannert Art Museum in Illinois, USA. 
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Rapidprototypedshoe / 2010Printed on an Objet Printing System

Mechanical Couture; Fashioning a New Order, 14 October 2010 – 8 January 2011
Design Museum Holon, Israel
Curators: Curatorsquared; Ginger Gregg Duggan and Judith Hoos Fox
Other exhibitors; Dai Fujiwara, Shelley Fox, Ying Gao
and Simon Thorogood
www.dmh.org.il

Rapidprototypedshoe is made using an additive manufacturing technology in which successive layers of a photopolymer material are UV cured. The shoe is built in one go, but is comprised of two materials, which are organised into different microscopic structures, thereby enabling different material properties. As a result, the shoe has both flexible and rigid sections. The shoe has been designed to be disassembled for the purpose of replacing parts, despite having never been assembled in the first place.

When moving from rapid prototyping to rapid manufacturing, inherent construction possibilities and aesthetics of the production method needs to be explored. Certain design and production details such as the punch holes and screws in this design are not a derivative of this production method, but still make constructive sense.








Construct #2
 / 2010 
Construct #2 
shows the step-by-step digital procedure for creating Rapidprototypedshoe. The series includes microscopic images of the material Rapidprototypedshoe has been made from, in both a liquid and cured state. 

Shoe last.
Digitising shoe last.
VeroBlack material cartridge for Objet's Connex500 multi-material 3D printing machine.Creating 3D file in Rhino.
Digital microscopic image 50X zoom of VeroBlack material in liquid state.
Digital microscopic image 50X zoom of VeroBlack material in built state.
Digital microscopic image 50X zoom of VeroBlack scaffold material. 
Rapidprototypedshoe.
Exhibition shot, Design Museum Holon.







Other works on display:
After Hours / 2009
Materials: various

After Hours presents the step-by-step procedure for making Rotationalmouldedshoe, from material developments and experiments to the pouring, moulding and de-moulding process, along with a menagerie of material tests and failures, culminating in the finished pair. The stylized representation of the manufacturing process resembles a factory abandoned in the middle of production, and comments on the aesthetics, value, and economics of the machine-made. 

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Jerwood Contemporary Makers, 
17 June - 25 July 2010
Jerwood Space, London
Selection panel: Hans Stofer, Richard Slee and Freddie Robins
www.jerwoodvisualarts.org
www.jerwoodspace.co.uk


Established in 2008, Jerwood Contemporary Makers is a three year initiative developed to support the applied arts and encourage new and stimulating ways of showing work across a range of disciplines. It replaces the Jerwood Applied Arts Prize, which was run in partnership with the Crafts Council for 11 years. The 2010 exhibition will be the last in the series. The 2010’s selection panel investigates the notion of making by bringing together a broad range of work from across craft and the visual arts.

Work on display:
Rotationalmouldedshoe / 2009 
Materials: Polyurethane rubber and stainless steel
Rotationalmouldedshoe was specifically designed for the
After Hours installation in the Krannert Art Museum in Illinois, USA.

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Rotationalmouldedshoe / 2009 
Rotationalmouldingmachine / 2009

Brit Insurance Designs of the Year 2009, 12 February – 14 June 2009
Design Museum, London UK
Curator: Nina Due
www.designsoftheyear.com
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After Hours / 2009






Construct 
/ 2009
WOWdesign: Marloes ten Bhömer, January 30 - May 31
Krannert Art Museum, Illinois USA
Curators: Ginger Gregg Duggan and Judith Hoos Fox
Rotationalmouldingmachine designed by Nick Williamson
www.kam.uiuc.edu

After Hours presents the step-by-step procedure for making Rotationalmouldedshoe, from material developments and experiments to the pouring, moulding and de-moulding process, along with a menagerie of material tests and failures, culminating in the finished pair. The stylized representation of the manufacturing process resembles a factory abandoned in the middle of production, and comments on the aesthetics, value, and economics of the machine-made. Construct shows the step-by-step procedure for creating Beigefoldedshoe.
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Launch show Beigefoldedshoe / 2009
Spring Projects, London
Curator: Andree Cooke
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exhibitionsnextgeneration.jpgFashion NL; The next generation / 2006
Gemeentemuseum, The Hague 
Art director: Maarten Spruyt
Curator: Madelief Hohé
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exhibitiongallerymackintosh.jpgEverything Material Something Immaterial 2007
Gallerie Lucy Mackintosh, Lausanne
Curators UK part of the exhibition: Emily Campbell, British Council, Shumon Basar and Joshua Bolchover, Newbetter
Originally produced as the UK chapter of Get it Louder in Guangzhou, Shanghai and Beijing, 2007
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exhibitionschinagetitlouder.jpg
Get it Louder / 2007
Grandview Mall, Guangzhou / Daning the Life Hub, Shanghai / SOHO Shangdu, Beijing
Curators UK part of the exhibition: Emily Campbell, British Council, Shumon Basar and Joshua Bolchover, Newbetter
Organised by the British Council
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exhibitionsshoes.jpg

Shoes / 2004
Artsniper, Arnhem
Curators: Jaap Kroneman and Wilma Sommers
A series of 8 exhibitions starting with the exhibition “shoes”. Central focus of the exhibition, the complex and layered aspect of reality explored and expressed in art.
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exhibitionsarnhem.jpg

Made in Arnhem / 2005
MMKArnhem, Arnhem
Curator: Joke Alkema
"Pandora's Box", a display exhibit commissioned by the MMKArnhem entails several shoes and shoe related items that challenge Marloes’s vision of shoe design.
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exhibitionsarnhemcatalogue.jpg
Made in Arnhem / 2005
MMKArnhem, Arnhem
Curator: Joke Alkema
Catalogue describing the displayed items in "Pandora's Box"




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© Marloes ten Bhömer 2000-2017