Marloes - COUTURE SHOES

COUTURE SHOES

Rotationalmouldedshoe / 2009
Materials: Polyurethane rubber and stainless steel
Rotational moulding is a process in which a negative mould is filled with a small amount liquid and as the mould starts to rotate, this material solidifies against the inner walls of the mould, forming a shell, a hollow form. Rotationalmouldedshoe was specifically designed for the "After Hours" installation in the Krannert Art Museum in Illinois, USA. After Hours presents the step-by-step procedure for making Rotationalmouldedshoe, from material developments and experiments to the pouring, moulding and de-moulding process, along with a menagerie of material tests and failures, culminating in the finished pair. The stylized representation of the manufacturing process resembles a factory abandoned in the middle of production, and comments on the aesthetics, value, and economics of the machine-made. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Greyglassfibreshoe / 2004
Materials: Leather and fibreglass
Design evolution of the previous “Carbonfibreshoe”, made from a layered piece of fibreglass pressed in a two-piece mould. The combination of form and materials serve a dual purpose in generating a typology that gives the shoe its strength.
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Mouldedleathershoe / 2003
Materials: Vegetable tanned leather and carbon fibre
Sections of vegetable tanned leather, pre-formed on a variety of shoe lasts (mould that is shaped in the form of an abstracted foot), are cut and assembled to create a fractured shoe. Even though its form is distorted, one can still recover the shapes of the lasts that the parts were constructed on initially.
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Noheelsleathershoe / 2006
Materials: Leather
Study that explores the possible formal qualities when producing “Noheelsshoe” in rotating mould. Rotational moulding is a process in which a negative mould is filled with a small amount liquid and as the mould starts to rotate, this material solidifies against the inner walls of the mould, forming a shell, a hollow form.
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Redmâchéshoe / 2003
Materials: Stainless steel and leather
The MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique is a leather laminating technique, which abolishes the use of a shoe upper pattern and allows for a varied wall thickness of the shoe. Redmâchéshoe uses rather big sheets of leather, defining the heel and abstracting the toe. The heel is a reinforced sheet of leather, attached to the side of the shoe curving down underneath the heel of the foot.
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Bluemâchéshoe / 2003
Materials: Leather and stainless steel
The MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique is a leather laminating technique. Bluemâchéshoe traces the silhouette form of the foot on the inside, but diffuses the silhouette form of the foot on the outside.
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Greymâchéshoe / 2005
Materials: Leather and stainless steel
Greymâchéshoe employs the MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique using loose straps of mâché, diffusing the silhouette of the foot.
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Beigefoldedshoe / 2009
Materials: Vegetable tanned leather and stainless steel heel
Beigefoldedshoe is made from a single piece of folded leather and stainless steel heel construction.
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Blackfoldedshoe / 2010
Materials: Vegetable tanned leather and stainless steel heel
Blackfoldedshoe is made from a single piece of folded leather and stainless steel heel construction.
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Carbonfibreshoe #1 / 2003
Materials: Carbon fibre
Shoes constructed from carbon fibre. The heels are placed on the side of the shoe, forcing the weight of the body to distribute of from side to side when walking.
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Carbonfibreshoe #2 / 2003
Materials: Carbon fibre and leather
Shoes constructed from carbon fibre, cladded in leather.
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Noheelsshoe / 2003
Materials: Polyurethane resin
Shoes cast in polyurethane resin in a two-piece mould. Refers even less to exiting footwear typologies due to the erased heel.
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Creplashoe / 2001
Materials: Crepla and leather
Crepla, a specific type of foam, stretched around a conventional stiletto sole, emphasizing this line in the abstracted shoe-silhouette.
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Foldedshoe / 2001
Materials: Wood and tarpaulin
A single sheet of fabric folded once to create an abstracted shoe shape.
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Blackmâchéshoe / 2005
Materials: Leather and resin
Shoes constructed using the MARLOESTENBHÖMER™ leather-mâché technique. This leather laminating technique abolishes the use of a shoe upper pattern and allows for a varied wall thickness of the shoe. Blackmâchéshoe employs loose straps of mâché, diffusing the silhouette of the foot.
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CNCshoe, SLSshoe / 2003
Materials SLSshoe: Rubber
Materials CNCshoe: Leather
Both CNCshoe and SLSshoe started out as virtual monolithic forms, out of which a foot shape has been carved. The walls of these shoes serve the purpose of a suspension type construction, allowing a carved out space underneath the heel. Both these shoes use CAM; Computer Aided Manufacturing. CNCshoe uses 5-AXE CNC milled leather. SLSshoe uses Selective Laser Sintered rubber.

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